By adjusting the position of the stops to limit the travel of the router, you prevent the bit from damaging the rails.Īs I mentioned earlier, I use simple shop-made wedges to secure the workpiece between the rails. One important detail to take note of is the pair of stops on the underside of the base. The drawings above show the plans for building the router base. To span the distance between the rails, mount your router on a large auxiliary base. Shop-made wedges “pinch” it between the rails and hold it fast while you rout the face. This arrangement allows you to secure stock of different widths in the jig simply by moving the back rail against the edges of the workpiece. You’ll notice that the front rail of the jig is fixed and the back rail is adjustable. The drawings show you how to make the base and rails that form the basic jig. Add to that platform a set of rails slightly taller than the thickness of the workpiece and you’ve established a reference surface you can use to flatten the face. This technique begins by mounting the workpiece in a stable platform that will prevent it from moving or rocking. My favorite way to tackle this problem is with a router and a shop-made jig. You could break out the hand planes and get to work, but that can make for a long day if the workpiece is twisted. Unless you have a very wide jointer, flattening the surface can be a problem. But to end up with a flat workpiece, you have to flatten one face first. What a planer actually does is reduce the thickness of a workpiece and make one face parallel to the other. ![]() When editing points, to delete a point, click it and press DELETE.There’s a common misconception that a planer will flatten the stock you run through it. Optionally hold Z while drawing to disable snapping to trails.Ĭlick the edit points button to manually edit or add points after drawing. Optionally hold CTRL while freehand drawing near parallel trails to stick to that current trail. There is also an undo option to revert some changes. Clicking a blue routing point will remove it and the route will be re-calculated. To remove points press or hold down DELETE. While in this mode, selectable segments have a pink glow and will highlight with mouse over. If drawing near trails your line will snap to the nearest trail after drawing.Ĭlick Selecting Mode to click individual trail segments in sequence, each segment will try and align correctly, but there is an optional flip button to flip the last segment. To start freehand drawing click and drag the last blue routing point in any mode. Pressing ESC will exit Draw Mode or Selecting Mode. You can hold down SHIFT and auto-route to a point in Map Mode. You can hold down ALT to draw a straight line between points, ignoring the auto-routing.Ī straight line is also drawn if no routing can be found to your clicked point. ![]() You can toggle Map Mode if you wish to interact with the map like normal. ![]() You can mix and match these methods to create the perfect route.Īuto-routing between clicked points is the default, click a starting point on the map. There are 3 ways to create a route, click points to auto-route between them, freehand draw with snapping, or selecting individual trail segments.
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